08.10.09
Catalan Flavors…
In Spain, leisure time with friends and family is very much an essential part of the daily life. Even in a big city like Barcelona, if you wander off the beaten path and look around the local streets and neighborhoods, you will see that all the shopkeepers would close their shops in the early afternoon. According to my friend Julie who is an American-born resident in Spain, larger corporations would call it a day in the office at 3 p.m. in the month of August when the days are the hottest. Perhaps you have heard of the term Siesta. It is traditionally a time set aside for refreshment and rest with the family. After that, the shops will then re-open in the late afternoon for a few more hours before the owners retreat to their favorite bar for a cold beer or a glass of wine and a small bite that is known as tapas. For those who appreciate food and want to explore a colorful and flavorful cuisine in addition to a passionate and colorful Mediterranean culture, Barcelona should not be missed.
Breakfast time
This year, we stayed at a bed and breakfast (http://www.barcelonabb.com) inside of a “new” 19th century building in the Modernista area of the Eixample district of Barcelona. Our vacation days there typically began with a light breakfast after 9 a.m. which consists of a variety of bread, some pastries, a few kinds of cured meat, orange juice, and coffee or tea. Thanks to our gracious and friendly host Kiku (an endearing nickname for Francisco), we felt like we were staying with a cousin who took very good care of us. He provided excellent local information and directions to go anywhere we wanted. In my opinion, this kind of personal service makes the vacation even more enjoyable and memorable.
An important point to note is that the regional language Catalan is widely used and spoken in Barcelona. For example, Catalonia is the English word for Catalunya in Catalan, and Cataluña in Spanish (the language known as Castellano according to Spaniards). In some smaller local restaurants, you might only get menus in Catalan and Castellano. If you don’t speak much or any Spanish at all, it is always advisible to do a little research ahead of time and understand the common menu items if you want to order exactly what you want in a local eatery that isn’t used to catering to tourists. But having said that, in a big city like Barcelona, a lot of young people speak decent English and will not be shy to use it. So don’t let your rusty or lack of Spanish skills hold you back from seeking an authentic dining experience.
If you are planning to visit Barcelona and are looking for some common food suggestions when dining out, here is my list of top must-try traditional savory dishes. Most of them are typical Spanish tapas, while some of them are particular to the Catalonia region. I will also post a review of the restaurants that I have visited during this trip, so check back if you’re curious.
1. Pa Amb Tomàquet
Literally means bread with tomato in Catalan, this is an item that is served in every restaurant. It is almost impossible to miss in Barcelona. It is slices of toasted bread rubbed with tomatoes and seasoned with olive oil and salt. Sometimes the toasts are also lightly rubbed with a clove of raw garlic before tomatoes are used. Some believe it originated from the harsh times of the Spanish civil war when little other than bread and tomatoes were available. Today, it is enjoyed as a common side dish during dinner.
2. Esqueixada
Esqueixada is a popular summer salad in the Catalan cuisine that consists of torn desalted bacalao (salt cod) or goat cheese, with some local vegetables such as tomatoes, bell peppers, onions, and olives, all mixed with some vinegar and olive oil. In my Barcelona restaurant review, I will list both versions with bacalao and goat cheese from two different restaurants. They were both delicious, though I personally prefer the one with the cod fish.
3. Jamón
Jamón is a Spanish ham typically cured and aged in remote mountain villages in Spain. It is enjoyed everywhere in the country including Barcelona. All restaurants in Spain serve primarily Jamón Serrano which is made from normal pigs. It is cured for at least a year which results in a deep flavor and firm texture. Occasionally you will come across a restaurant that serves Jamón Ibérico which is made from acron and pasture-fed black Iberian pigs native only to Spain. This is considered as a premium ham, just like Beluga caviar or Kobe beef in their own categories. Jamón is found in all tapas bars in Spain. I have seen it served as a plain pintxos (another name for tapas), or with asparagus and quail eggs sunny side up.
4. Chorizo
Chorizos, salchichones, morcillas… There are just too many sausage varities to name. I love the ones that are cured with my favorite smoked paprika called pimentón. They could be eaten as links, or sliced and added to bread.
5. Gazpacho
This is technically a liquid tomato salad, served cold with a variety of garnishes such as crushed hazelnuts and walnuts, chopped garlic and parsley, and a topping of elegant and subtle Idiazábal cheese. This is especially refreshing and satisfying as a starter to a summer lunch.
6. Croquetas
Bite size savory treats made of flour, eggs, milk, seasonings, and coated with bread crumbs, croquetas are fried to perfection to accompany a cold glass of beer or beverage at the tapas bars. Sometimes chopped Jamón is mixed in. Nonetheless, these little morsels are hard to resist.
7. Patata Bravas
Also fried, this potato dish is as widely served in restaurants just like French fries in American restaurants. It is commonly served with a spicy bravas sauce (similar to a tomato based mayo) on top. It is a side dish menu item that can be found in most restaurants.
8. Tortilla Española
This is a Spanish omelet that consists of fried potato slices and onions. There are many variants to this dish. And almost every restaurant and household has their own favorite way of preparing it. In many tapas bars, it is served with crusty toasted bread as a bocadillo (sandwich).
9. Paella
A famous rice dish from Spain, paella originated from Valencia where chicken and other meats are used. In Barcelona or the Catalonia region, seafood is quite popular as well. It is cooked in large flat pans called paellera. From what I was told, paella is traditionally served for lunch on Thursday in many restaurants. Different places usually have their own interpretation of this dish. The essential ingredients include a special paella rice call la Bomba, tomatoes, garlic, a choice of meat and/or seafood, and a broth.
10. Fideuà
Cooked just like paella, Fideuà is made of a kind of thin pasta instead of rice. It is a Catalan specialty that does not have pieces of seafood or meat mixed in. But the flavor is just as intense as paella. I highly recommend asking for this at a restaurant when you have a chance.
As expected, there are so many food choices in Barcelona, it is impossible to write about all that I enjoy eating in just one post. Since this city is on the coast of the Mediterranean, it has an abundant amount of seafood available in the market year-round. If you are a seafood-lover, ask for some pulpos de gallego which is fresh octopus cooked and served in the most tender way you could imagine. Another dish called sepia is calamari which is also fresh and delicious. If you feel even more adventurous, look for a pintxos with angulas (bread with baby eels). I found this on a tapa with sliced eggs and grilled pepper. The baby eels were so soft and mild that no one at the table could identify what they were.
I hope my list becomes part of your culinary journey when you visit this wonderful city of Barcelona. Please don’t forget to leave a comment below and let us know what you think when you have a moment.
¡Bon profit!
